Tan ZeHua

Tan Ze Hua, born in 1953 in China’s Hunan Province, has left a lasting imprint on the world of watchmaking. Raised in a family deeply rooted in horology, he inherited his skills from his father, who had been repairing watches locally since 1949. From an early age, Tan was immersed in mechanical craftsmanship, culminating in a formal apprenticeship between 1966 and 1969. By the time he reached his early twenties, Tan had already launched his professional career, spending fourteen years working in a state-run watch repair facility. This experience laid the technical and conceptual groundwork that would later fuel his drive to venture independently. In 1980, he founded his own watch repair shop, marking the start of his solo path in horology.

Tan’s evolution as a watchmaker is a story of perseverance and versatility. While operating his watch repair business, he also worked part-time at an industrial pump manufacturing factory, where he acquired vital machining skills used in precision mechanical engineering. These techniques proved invaluable when he transitioned to watch designing and manufacturing in 2005. Coming from a generation where computer-aided design was not yet widespread, Tan relied entirely on manual calculations and hand-drawn technical drawings to conceptualize and refine his ideas. His ability to work through intricate measurements and schematics without digital tools underscores his mastery of traditional engineering disciplines.

By 2015, Tan had successfully developed four proprietary watch movements, including his remarkable split-axis escapement, for which he applied for an invention patent.

His philosophy in watchmaking goes far beyond mere visual appeal. Tan is deeply focused on the technical mastery of escapements and achieving extended power reserves. His creations, often understated in design, are powered by complex and refined mechanical movements—most notably his proprietary 10-day calibre and the inventive Di-Axial escapement. In recognition of his dedication and horological artistry, he was nominated and became a full member of the esteemed Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants (AHCI) in 2019, cementing his place among the world’s elite independent watchmakers.

Over the past ten years, Tan’s work has continued to impress the horological community through his fully in-house developed movements. He has also engineered several of his own tools, including a guilloché engine and a Côtes de Genève finishing machine. Among his most distinctive collections is the “Rainbow” series, whose debut model was unveiled at the 2023 Singapore Watch Fair, exemplifying Tan’s aesthetic refinement and mechanical innovation. Another standout is the ‘Melody 5201’ in-house manual-winding movement, the very calibre that earned him admission into AHCI. This movement has recently been featured in his latest releases, including versions with a small seconds display at 12 o’clock and a cloisonné enamel dial series.

Tan’s watches are crafted in two primary case sizes—39 mm and 41 mm—and offered in two main materials: stainless steel and 18k solid gold. This variety allows collectors with different wrist sizes and stylistic preferences to enjoy his creations, making his timepieces both inclusive and distinctive.