Begin with an already successful design and use a material never been used before in Swiss watchmaking; that’s what Linde Werdelin have done with the Oktopus Moon 3DTP™, by sculpting the case out of pioneering 3-D Thin Ply Carbon (3DTP™).
There have been several previous versions of the Oktopus Moon, however, in this release, the brand have not only utilised a material more commonly seen in aerospace and motorsports, but there have also been a few modifications to both the case and movement.
Not only have Linde Werdelin kept the aesthetics very on brand, but add the extreme lightweight design to the resilience of 3DTP™, to the water depth resistance of 300m and out pops a very capable sports and diver’s watch (that owners may decide to wear as a “daily beater” too).
Face & case
The familiar 8 sided case of the Oktopus Moon 3DTP is in the same 44mm x 46mm size as usual, however, this is the first time Linde Werdelin have used their proprietary 3D Thin Ply Carbon (3DTP™) for the entire case.
Using 3DTP™ Carbon has dramatically reduced the weight of the case to just 60 grams, making the Oktopus Moon 3DTP™ the lightest watch it has ever produced (two grams less than the SpidoLite 3DTP™). Geeks can read more about carbon in the “Other Stuff” section later.
A few changes in design are apparent: the bezel is now sitting at a steeper angle towards the outer case and looks more integrated than previous versions. 8 x DLC Titanium hex screws that have been coated in black and finished with circular satin brush effect, fix the bezel to the case and the usual 4 (slightly larger) hex screws are fixed in the corners of both straight lugs and are used to hold/release the straps.
2 versions of the Oktopus Moon 3DTP are available, both with silver white dials (sitting beneath a sapphire crystal with antireflective coating on the inside), but with a subtle difference being the colour highlight, of either blue or cool grey in the numbers 3, 9 and 12, the “LW” logo and the hands. There is also a new all black “Black Ink” version, which was released separately from these and is not shown here.
At the perimeter of the dial, the deep rehaut features dark line minute markers and larger 5 minute markers filled with cool grey. This format of markers is replicated on the outer edge of the dial itself, except between 6 and 8 o’clock where you will see the “LW” logo and the word “Linde Werdelin”.
As in previous versions of the Oktopus Moon and many other models in the Linde Werdelin range, the dial is constructed using multiple skeletonised layers. The rehaut and top layer are silver white, with a circular satin finish, opening up to a few other layers, finishing with the bottom layer which has a Circular Côte de Genève decoration. In amongst the skeletonised areas and from the outside of the dial moving inwards, you will first notice light blue numerals visible in various locations, which indicate the upcoming phases of the moon (in +1 day intervals). The phases of the moon between 4 and 8 o’clock are fully visible, but there are also glimpses of other moons through the skeletonised areas around the dial. A few notable changes to previous versions of the Oktopus Moon are that the moons are no longer photo realistic and no moon is visible when there is no moon in the sky.
In poor lighting conditions, blue Luminova can be seen in abundance. Obviously the moons are well lit up, but all the indeces, numbers and of course, the long triangular shaped, satin finished titanium hands are also filled with lume.
The sides of the case have the usual sharp angles and openings on each side. The titanium crown is nestled right into the side, has a rough circular satin finish and appears relatively small, although has well defined grip grooves. The crown has an engraving of an octopus motif on its end.
Turn the watch over and the sealed case back is polished titanium, with a drawing of an octopus holding the “LW” logo engraved over most of the centre of it. There are further laser engravings around the outside of the caseback all in CAPS, being “Oktopus”, “WR 300m”, “Rinse post sea”, the number of the limited edition and “184.108.40.206.16”.
The Linde Werdelin Oktopus Moon 3DTP is powered by a bespoke automatic LW Calibre with an in house moon phase complication; it has had slight modifications since the original which was developed back in 2009 with master watchmaker Svend Andersen.
Featuring 23 jewels, it beats at a frequency of 28,800vph (4 Hz) and wearers should expect a power reserve of circa 42 hours once fully wound.
Straps supplied with the Linde Werdelin Oktopus Moon 3DTP are rubber; ocean blue with the blue design and snow white with the plain silver white design. Both are fastened with a black coated and brushed titanium Ardillion buckle.
As with all Linde Werdelin watches, the case features their proprietary fitting system, so straps are interchangeable and colour choice is likely an option at time of purchase (if not, it’s certainly easy enough as a retro fit later).
We’re going a bit off-piste from the usual chat about watches here, but thought it could be interesting (and potentially educational) to some….
As you know, this Oktopus Moon’s case is made from their 3DTP™ Carbon – it is a highly technical material, massively durable and strong, whilst at the same time, ridiculously lightweight.
Known for their impressive strength to weight ratios, carbon fibre composites are prevalent across multiple industries today. The aerospace and automotive sectors have been using different variations of carbon fibre for decades and there is constant research into the enhancement of carbon fibre composite properties, in order to increase their strength and continually reduce weight. Luxury sports and fashion have also found new and interesting ways to take advantage of their useful properties.
A “thin ply” carbon fibre basically means that the individual layers which make up the material, are thinner than conventional carbon fibre and ultimately increases its mechanical properties.
Thin Ply Carbon Technology is now revolutionising the world of laminate composites, with significantly improved properties and the freedom to position each microfiber optimally for its intended use, allows for objects made from these materials to be up to 15% stiffer and harder than traditional carbon fibre, whilst still being considerably lighter in weight.
Linde Werdelin’s case and bezel of the Oktopus Moon 3DTP have been sculpted using this same thin ply layering process and it is the world’s first use the in Swiss watchmaking.
As a personal fan of Linde Werdelin, their pieces are always recognisable, mainly due to the case design, but also thanks to the somewhat rugged appearance of the materials used and the chiselled angles of the cases. Whilst the material used in the Oktopus Moon 3DTP is likely one of the hardest the brand have used to date, the case appears to be somewhat softer, aesthetically anyway – the design is still very much both recognisable and to my personal taste, but I do prefer the more sharp and angular finish to their previous cases.
Being so very light and with me used to wearing some much heavier steel sports watches, it doesn’t actually feel as if there is a watch on my wrist. Its appearance is also surprising, as at 44mm x 46mm, the watch does cover the width of my wrist, but it appears to be much smaller than it actually is – perhaps this is an optical illusion due to the dial covering roughly only 60% of the width of the watch.
At 15mm thick, it’s pretty chunky, but the negligible weight is in its favour and if you were going to wear it casually, rather than a sports watch (which I’m sure many would), with the softer edges of the case, there is less likelihood of having to fight with cuffs.
The dial is light and bright, my preference being the pure white/silver one, rather than with the blue accents, but that’s just me. The moon phase is easy to read and offers a bit of a treat when light is reduced, as the lumed moons, indices and numbers bring the dial alive, through the multiple layers of the dial.
There are only two negative points that I noticed, one being a personal preference – I am not a fan of rubber straps, which is obviously an easy fix. The other thing I noticed, is that the crown is so perfectly nestled into the crown guards on the case, that the grooves in the titanium crown are a little sharp when trying to turn it out of (and back into) it’s screwed in position.
As with all Linde Werdelin pieces, this is a limited run and only 59 of each colourway will be produced. Add this to the edgy design and a price tag of 17,500 GBP, it is unlikely you see another person wearing one when you go diving, or to the pub!
This is the first release from the brand for a while now and hoping to not only see more releases soon, but also to see what new materials and designs come next!!