Backes & Strauss, the world’s oldest diamond company, has joined forces with About Timepieces to unveil the W1 Anthracite; an evolution of the original W1 design and a statement collaboration where collector instinct drives manufacture.

Based on the original Berkely W1, this isn’t just another colour added to the collection; it’s a project co-developed from the ground up, where the aesthetic decisions were considered carefully, to enhance the appearance without detracting too far from the original design.

Keen collectors know that most limited edition collaboration releases go to market via a presale these days, however, all of these watches are ready to go to their respective new owners and will be delivered to their new owners within weeks rather than multiple months/years.

This is the first collaboration between Backes & Strauss and About Timepieces, representing a rare opportunity for collectors seeking something quietly different, with the redesign of the dial being led by an avid collector himself.

Levon Knadjian, brand Director and imaginary original W1 collection explains the concept behind it:

The Berkeley W1 is inspired by the classic Berkeley shape and refined with a slim modern case.  It pairs a brushed stainless steel bracelet with polished links, reveals its decorated mechanical movement through an open case back, and features our signature Jewel in the crown – a diamond set in the crown, which adds an element of elegance to the timepiece. 

The W1 name, the postal code for Mayfair, celebrates brand provenance in London and its rich history and heritage.  This timepiece represents the perfect fusion of classic design and modern technology.

Backes & Strauss x About Timepieces W1 Anthracite

Face & case

The W1 Anthracite is based on the 40mm squared octagon silhouette of the original W1 case and is available in a brushed stainless steel, brushed stainless with black PVD coating and also one unique piece in brushed stainless steel with 2 rows of 64 diamonds, totalling 128 @ 2.92cts.  Only 10 dials were ever made and the case split will be covered later in this article.

Inspired by Backes & Strauss’ Berkeley architecture, the edges have been softened, with gently tapered (polished) lugs which flow into the stainless steel bracelet.  The bezel is relatively wide, following the shape of the case and provides a confident frame to the dial.

The previously unreleased anthracite coloured dial, exclusive to this collaboration, shifts between deep slate (almost black), light grey and soft charcoal tones depending on how the light hits the contrasting sections of guilloche between the hour marker sections; delivering a quiet depth that reveals itself over time. 

About Timepieces deliberately challenged convention by revising the index layout; replacing the traditional “XII” at 12 o’clock with “II” and “II” usually on the W1 at 6 o’clock with a “I”, to follow the flow of the other indices around the dial.  This was a small but calculated choice that maintains symmetry while hinting at slight rebellion beneath a restraint of respect for the model’s original design.  

Elongated Roman indices are applied and highly polished, providing sharp highlights, again depending on how the light hits them. The centre of the dial has a vertically brushed finish, Backes & Strauss printed in white on the dial at the top half and a polished About Timepieces Icon has been discretely applied above the 6 o’clock index – a subtle signature of collaboration.

Polished sword shaped hands float around the dial, with lumed centres ensure low light functionality.  The only other thing to notice is the tiny words SWISS and Made at the very bottom of the dial, printed in white.

The crown is small but defined, with sharp angles, deep grips and of course, the signature “Jewel in the Crown” is present – a 0.06 carat ideal cut diamond sits inside the end of the crown.

Turn the watch over and again, the screw down case back is vertically brushed around a central viewing window.  The movement is by Franck Muller and features hand finishing and engravings across the main plates and bridges.  Deep and concise engravings are placed strategically on each of the 4 edges of the case back, with both collaborative brands’ names, the collection and the number of the piece in each of the 3 series available.

Whilst it doesn’t say anything on the case to this effect, it is water resistant to 30m.

Backes & Strauss x About Timepieces W1 Anthracite Case Back

Movement

Inside, the W1 Anthracite is powered by a hand wound Franck Muller Calibre FM7500; which whilst not 100% certain, looking at the size and the fact it’s shown as adjusted to 5 positions and around 48 hours power reserve, it’s most likely something based around the ETA 7001, but with in house modifications by Franck Muller.

Each movement is hand-engraved, a deliberate nod to traditional craftsmanship that contrasts beautifully with the modernist dial execution.

The winding experience is tactile, offering a rewarding interaction that connects wearer and watch.  It reminds collectors that behind the refined exterior lies an artisanal heartbeat — one deserving of close attention.

Backes & Strauss x About Timepieces W1 Anthracite Side & Crown

Strap

The W1 Anthracite is fitted with a stainless steel bracelet with brushed external links and polished rectangular internal links. The flat surfaces, each made up of a wide “H” shape and separated by a subtle polished square motif are reminiscent of the geometric rhythm of Gérald Genta’s iconic Nautilus design.

Tapering neatly towards the clasp, it closes with a butterfly deployant, ensuring a seamless flow around the wrist and a secure, balanced fit. 

Quick release bars allow for easy changing of the strap.

Backes & Strauss x About Timepieces W1 Anthracite Bracelet

Other stuff

This collaboration has been a long time coming – we discussed the idea during a meeting in Geneva which was probably close to 3 years ago and we have been planning off and on since.

Whilst there wasn’t a dramatic change in design to the dial, I wanted to make a noticeable change to the overall look, but without going too far “off-piste” and being respectful of the overall feel.  The colour was an instant decision based on the idea of the brushed case matching and a colour that Backes & Strauss had never done before – looking around at the market, there are actually very few watchmakers that opt for grey, which I found odd, since the colour has been fashionable for interiors and cars etc for the last few years.

Initially, I only wanted to do 5 pieces, as that was our standard release number to date, however, because Vartkess Knadjian (Backes & Strauss CEO) had always said he would make 10 dials, we decided to split up the collection into a few different offerings.

Only 10 individually numbered watches will ever exist:

• 5 x Stainless Steel (Numbered X/5) – £6,500 (GBP including UK VAT @ 20%)
• 4 x PVD models – £6,500 (GBP including UK VAT @ 20%)
• 1 x Stainless Steel with Diamond Bezel – £16,500 (GBP including UK VAT @ 20%)

Each watch is assembled and finished in Switzerland, merging Backes & Strauss’ generational diamond setting mastery with About Timepieces’ collector-led aesthetic philosophy.

This isn’t a release designed for mass audiences; it’s aimed purely at those who appreciate the effort gone into not only the manufacture, but subtle differences based on personal passion for design.

These 10 pieces are available exclusively through About Timepieces online store.

Backes & Strauss x About Timepieces W1 Anthracite On the Wrist

Our verdict

I am bound to biased on this one, but the truth is that the Backes & Strauss x About Timepieces W1 Anthracite is more than a collaboration; it’s a rare dialogue between heritage craftsmanship and collector driven design.  By blending restrained geometry with subtle design changes, it offers something few well established brands play with.

I first saw the finished stainless steel version in Geneva earlier this year and I was impressed to say the least.  It came out a lot better than I originally imagined and whilst we played about with dial colours in renders etc, it just didn’t prepare for how good it looks in the flesh.  The colour is really just amazing and whilst grey is a very “in” colour in interior design and clothing, very few brands actually choose grey dials..

The finishing is thoughtfully executed; brushed case surfaces meet polished accents, creating a subtle interplay of light that enhances the profile and polished elements of the dial, without overwhelming it.  This balance of finishes mirrors the philosophy behind the dial — understated sophistication with deliberate differences.

On the wrist, it is comfortable and has a good bite of weight to it, mainly due to the bracelet, as the case itself is quite thin.  The structure of the bracelet gives the bracelet both visual depth and a strong, contemporary character.  The result is a bracelet that feels as integral to the case as the dial itself; robust yet refined, echoing the same attention to detail as the movement within.  

At just 8mm thick, the profile feels refined, balancing presence with wearability; specifically as the underside of the case curves downwards to follow the shape of the wrist.  With it’s soft edges and corners, I think it will easily slip under most cuffs without much fuss.

With only 10 pieces worldwide across all the case configurations, it’s more than I originally anticipated releasing, however, I think the dial is really worthy of it – it was created for those who are with me in recognising significance of subtle changes without needing to be told they are there.

I always try and add a negative point, but I’m actually really struggling to do so.  Not a negative, but long standing subscribers will know I like to play about with straps, as they can change the appearance so much; I am thinking about a distressed black/grey denim, or something like matt grey alligator as a few options.  I do like the original bracelet though.

Pricewise, these pieces are priced at the same level as the original W1, giving owners the opportunity to have a watch with unique aesthetic, without a premium added to the price for the uniqueness.  Starting at £6,500 for the stainless and black PVD, you will get a hand crafted Swiss piece, which also has the heritage of the oldest diamond company in the world (in the crown).  And for a diamond encrusted one at £16,500, that’s around $18,500 USD (plus taxes), which seems like great value to me.

Whilst we all know that money makes the world go round, the biggest take away for you as a collector should be this – About Timepieces are doing this because I really love watches.  Everything about the talent, craftsmanship and being able to work with brands that are willing to take a risk on doing something different, just makes it less about money and more about the passion and the relationships that are forged during the process.

What made this collaboration special wasn’t only the watch itself, but the process and people involved.  Backes & Strauss were (surprisingly) open to exploring different dial configurations and reconfiguration of specific details and together we pushed the W1 into new territory.  At the heart of it all is my simple passion for watches — I collect because I want to feel a connection with what I am wearing and that’s what guided every decision.  

Any ideas on who the next About Timepieces collaboration will be with? 

https://www.backesandstrauss.com/

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