Many watch brands try to peak interest by introducing unorthodox case designs and extravagant movement complications; however, Oligo have decided to do the complete opposite.
Founded only one year ago, in February 2022, Oligo watches are based and assembled in Geneva, manufacturing mechanical watches that are made using local suppliers and with a high respect to the environment, all by design.
Headed up by a passionate Geneva born watchmaker, who is supported by a wide network of designers, creators and local suppliers.
Olivier Gaud is the main behind Oligo; his dream of a minimalist designed watch with floating hands, has been brought to life. He explains the idea behind his first release by his Oligo brand:
The main goal was to create a watch that was a return to the simplest lines and purest design possible. I am a fan of “galet” stones and wanted to get rid of as much as possible when drawing the cases. We decided to go for a lugless design to have a perfect circle without disruption.
Regarding the dials, we took the decision not to add any logo in order to give space to the plain colours. OLIGO watches are meant to be worn for the pleasure of the design, they are not “status” watches with a big logo. Furthermore, the lack of logo and the sleek design is a differentiation element. And for the floating hands, I wanted to add a touch of magic to the project and was lucky enough to source very thin discs of mineral glass with a chrome metallisation on them here in Geneva. After a few trials and errors, we eventually got it right and the floating hands is really the unique selling point of OLIGO, the signature of the brand.
I am in Geneva and surrounded by amazing manufacturers, and because eco-responsibility is at the core of my own values, I decided to try to reduce the global carbon footprint of the products by using only local suppliers and circular recycled stainless steel for the cases.
Oligo Blue, Brown and Black Watches
Face & case
A completely round, 41mm 3 part case, made from 100% recycled stainless steel (4441) and with a brushed finish, surrounds a choice of either blue, brown or black solid coloured dial.
The dials are all completely clear of any markings whatsoever; all of which feature the simplicity of the floating hands system, which is basically two pieces of ultra thin mineral glass, with chrome deposits in the shape of the two hands (one on each sheet of glass, to allow them to move independently of each other). The centre of the hands is also circular and chrome; the shiny chrome contrasts well against the brushed case.
From the side, there are nothing but smooth lines – the crown is very small, with a discrete engraved crisscross pattern around it to allow for a bit of additional finger grip. The brand’s OLIGO logo is printed on the end; the only element in the whole case that goes against the clean lines, as the logo has a non linear appearance.
Both the front and the back of the watch feature 100% Swiss sapphire crystals; dial side has a very slight dome to it, with anti-reflective coating, whilst the bottom crystal is flat.
The case back is screw down and also has a minimalistic appearance; with the brand name OLIGO printed in black on the right and a few smaller inscriptions on the left, of 3ATM (30m water resistance), the watch number and Swiss Made on either side of the strap lugs.
When I say lugs, there aren’t really any lugs as such, as the strap fixings are fully integrated into the case.
Straight, narrow, Geneva stripes, run from the centre of the rotor, outwards and the centred main plates feature tiny, closely connected, perlage. Everything is very small and it is difficult to see all the finished elements at a glance, however, looking through a loupe, other very delicately finished areas can be seen – any surface that appears flat from afar, has actually been gently directionally brushed. Whilst I believe this was done by the movement manufacturer, it could appear to have been done specifically for this watch.
Oligo Watch Case Back
Movement
Oligo watches are powered by an automatic Soprod Calibre M100, which (at only 25mm across), feature 25 jewels and runs at 28,800 bph (4Hz).
It can also be hand wound and owners should expect a power reserve of around 40 hours once fully wound.
Oligo Watch Side & Crown
Strap
All of the straps are made from vegan eco-suede, a PVC free and 100% biodegradable microfibre material, with quick release pins for easy changing. 18mm wide at the case end and 16mm at the fastening end, the blue dial watch comes with a light brown strap, brown dial comes with a dark brown strap and black dial with a black strap. ALl are lined with a cream eco-suede and stamped with Oligo branding.
Fastening is handled by a brushed steel pin buckle, with the OLIGO logo to one side of the pin.
All straps have an easy change quick release bar fitted.
Oligo Brown Strap & Buckle
Other stuff
Being one of the main drivers of the brand’s existence, an eco-responsible approach is at the heart of Oligo’s DNA.
All suppliers, other than the strap makers are located in French-speaking Switzerland.
The cases are made of 100% recycled Swiss steel, the crystals are 100% Swiss sapphire from the Jura, the dials made by Comblémine and Soprod movements, both located in Neuchâtel, time discs from Geneva and even the packaging is made from recycled materialis 100% recyclable, also in Geneva.
Only the straps are crafted outside of Switzerland. They are made in Italy in collaboration with ColaReb; the PVC-free materials follows the brand’s ethics of high quality, local and eco-friendly.
Most Swiss watch manufacturers offer a 2 year guarantee, however, Oligo watches are guaranteed for 3 years against all manufacturing defects (both parts and labour).
Oligo Blue on the Wrist
Our verdict
Even though we had all 3 watches “in hand” to review, we probably still finished off with the shortest written review I have ever done. This is likely down to the pure, unadulterated minimalism of Oligo’s first series of watches.
The design is clean, contemporary and very minimalistic and I really appreciate the attention to detail on all of the design elements. The floating hands within the case add to the minimalism, but also create intrigue, as it’s quite a novel way to differentiate between all the other watch designs available on the market.
Off the wrist, the 41mm watches look their size, but on the wrist, they seem to shrink, giving the look of a 38mm or so. I think this is an optical illusion, caused by the somewhat narrower strap than I am used to wearing. I always try to throw in a negative thought, just to be real and I think the strap width at the case end is the only thing that I could say wasn’t to my taste.
Comfort levels are good and the watch feels relatively light. At only 9mm thick and the smooth case edges (and no lugs), slipping under pretty much any cuff should be effortless.
Pricewise, the Oligo Blue, Brown & Black Watches are all available for 2,600 CHF, which seems to be lower than I expected, based on the all Swiss heritage and eco friendly supply chain. I would be quick if you fancy one though, as only 40 pieces are available in each colour and I understand they have been selling well.
I have met Olivier a few times now; he is such a humble guy, following his passion. He actually released another version recently, this time adding a geometric design to a black dial and with a Fleury Movement, it is more than double the price of his first release – he is already upping his game and I genuinely wish him all the best for the future of OLIGO.
how much Oligo?
2,600 CHF